
Do It Yourself Debt Consolidation: How to Consolidate Debt on Your Own
Do it yourself debt consolidation means organizing, comparing and executing a consolidation strategy without paying a company to choose the path for you. The key is not simply creating one payment—it is making sure the new structure lowers cost or improves control without adding avoidable risk.
Do it yourself debt consolidation: the quick answer
Do it yourself debt consolidation means you personally compare the debts, choose the consolidation method, apply or negotiate directly, complete the payoffs and monitor the old accounts afterward. You are not paying a debt-relief company to select or manage the strategy for you.
For many people, the DIY route can be straightforward. You can list your card balances, request payoff figures, compare a personal consolidation loan or balance-transfer card, call creditors about hardship options, and decide whether consolidating actually improves the numbers. The Federal Trade Commission specifically notes that consumers can contact credit-card companies themselves to negotiate lower rates or payment arrangements and do not need to pay a company simply to make that call on their behalf.
A DIY consolidation is successful only when it improves at least one important part of the debt plan: total cost, payment stability, payoff clarity or administrative simplicity—without creating a larger risk somewhere else. One monthly payment is convenient, but convenience by itself is not a financial win.
Before moving balances, decide whether consolidation is even the right category of solution. Our guide Is Debt Consolidation a Good Idea? can help you test that decision before you apply for anything.
What does do it yourself debt consolidation actually mean?
The phrase can describe several self-managed strategies. The most literal version is taking a new personal loan and using it to pay multiple debts, leaving one new installment payment. A balance transfer can also consolidate several card balances onto one card. Homeowners sometimes use home equity, although that changes unsecured debt into debt backed by the home. Other consumers use “DIY consolidation” more loosely to describe arranging due dates, negotiating hardship terms and building one coordinated payoff plan without opening new credit.
The important distinction is whether you are actually consolidating debt or simply managing several debts more efficiently. A debt avalanche, for example, is a self-directed payoff strategy, not consolidation: the accounts remain separate while you focus extra money on the highest APR. A creditor hardship plan also may reduce rates without combining balances. Those can still be better answers than opening a new loan.
DIY consolidation is not the same as debt settlement
Debt settlement usually means attempting to resolve a debt for less than the full balance, often after delinquency has occurred. Consolidation generally means repaying debt through a new structure rather than asking creditors to forgive principal. If the marketing terms are blurring together, compare them with Debt Consolidation vs. Debt Relief before signing or transferring money.
DIY does not mean “no professional input allowed”
You can remain in control and still use free or low-cost information. A nonprofit credit counselor can review a budget without automatically taking over the repayment plan. A mortgage professional can explain timing if you expect to buy a home. A tax professional can address tax questions. Doing it yourself means you make and execute the decision; it does not require ignoring qualified advice when the stakes justify it.
The best DIY consolidation starts before the applicationBefore you consolidate debt yourself: build a complete debt picture
Gather the most recent statement for every credit card, personal loan, medical balance and other account you might include. Record the current balance, APR, minimum payment, due date, whether the rate is fixed or variable, and whether the account is current, past due or in collections. For installment loans, request or locate the actual payoff amount because it may differ from the statement balance.
Next, build a monthly cash-flow number that is honest enough to survive an ordinary bad month. Subtract housing, utilities, food, insurance, transportation, healthcare, taxes and a small emergency cushion from reliable take-home income. The remaining amount is the maximum debt payment your plan can reasonably support. If the proposed consolidation payment consumes every remaining dollar, the plan is fragile even if a lender approves it.
Calculate the weighted cost of the debt you are replacing
Do not compare a new loan APR only with the highest card APR. If one card is at 29% but most of your balance is at 15%, the weighted cost is lower than 29%. List each balance and APR, then compare the new APR plus fees with the blended cost and expected payoff period of the existing accounts.
Separate debts that may need different treatment
A car loan, federal student loan, tax debt or mortgage may have different rights, collateral and repayment programs than ordinary credit-card debt. Avoid forcing every obligation into one solution simply because the word “consolidation” sounds efficient. For example, combining a vehicle loan and cards involves lien and payoff issues; see Can You Consolidate Car Loans and Credit Cards? for that scenario.
There is more than one way to consolidate without hiring a companyDIY debt consolidation methods compared
| DIY method | What changes | Best fit | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Personal consolidation loan | Several balances are paid with one new installment loan | Good credit and a meaningfully lower fixed APR | Origination fees or a long term can erase savings |
| Balance-transfer card | Credit-card balances move to one revolving account | Debt you can repay during a low/0% promotional window | Transfer fees and a higher APR after the promotion |
| Home equity loan | Unsecured debt is paid with borrowing secured by the home | Homeowners with sufficient equity and strong risk tolerance | The home becomes collateral |
| Direct creditor hardship plan | Accounts remain separate but rates/payments may be modified | Temporary hardship or consumers who cannot improve terms with new credit | Terms vary and not every creditor offers the same relief |
| DIY avalanche/snowball | No new credit; debts remain separate | Consumers who can afford current minimums plus extra principal | Does not create one payment and may require more discipline |
No single row is universally “best.” The right method depends on the debt type, your credit, the rate you can actually obtain, how quickly you can repay and how much behavioral structure you need. If the current issue is primarily credit-card debt, compare the broader payoff strategies in What’s the Best Way to Pay Off a Credit Card?.
A personal loan is the most direct version of DIY consolidationHow to use a personal consolidation loan yourself
A personal consolidation loan replaces selected balances with one new installment loan. You apply directly with lenders, compare offers, choose one if the economics improve, and use the proceeds to pay the old creditors. Some lenders offer direct creditor payoff, while others deposit funds into your account and leave the payoff steps to you.
Prequalification is useful, but the final offer is what matters
Many lenders provide a way to check potential terms before a full application, sometimes using a soft credit inquiry. Treat that as a shopping tool rather than a promise. The final approval can depend on verified income, credit history, debt-to-income ratio and lender-specific rules. Compare the final APR—not only the stated interest rate—because APR is designed to reflect borrowing cost including certain fees.
Origination fees can create a funding gap
If a lender charges an origination fee and deducts it from proceeds, a $20,000 approved loan may deliver less than $20,000 in cash. That can leave part of a card balance unpaid unless the loan amount was sized correctly. Before accepting, confirm whether the fee is deducted from proceeds or financed and whether the net amount will actually cover the payoff targets.
Complete the payoffs and verify zero balances
Do not assume a lender's “direct payoff” means every account is closed and finished. Watch each old account until the payment posts, confirm any residual interest or trailing balance, and save confirmation numbers. Continue making at least the required minimum on the old account until you can verify the payoff has been received.
Promotional rates can be powerful only when the deadline is realistic
DIY debt consolidation with a balance-transfer credit card
A balance-transfer card can move several credit-card balances to one new card, sometimes at a 0% or low promotional APR for a limited period. CFPB notes that balance transfers commonly include a fee and that the promotional rate expires. That means the DIY work is not just transferring the balances—it is building a payment schedule that clears the transferred amount before the higher post-promotion rate becomes relevant.
Calculate the required payment before you transfer
If you move $12,000 and pay a 3% transfer fee, the starting balance becomes roughly $12,360. If you have 18 months at a promotional rate and want the balance gone before expiration, dividing by 18 gives a rough payment target of $687 per month before considering any new purchases or additional interest. If that payment does not fit your budget, the promotion may not be a workable payoff plan.
Do not mix new spending with the consolidation balance
Using the same card for everyday purchases can make the payoff harder to track and can create interest complications depending on the card terms. A clean DIY approach is to treat the balance-transfer account as a repayment vehicle, not as newly available spending capacity.
Plan what happens to the old cards
Paid-down cards may remain open, which can preserve available credit but can also tempt you to rebuild balances. Closing a card can affect your credit profile, so the decision is not automatic. Debtier covers the practical trade-off in Can I Still Use My Credit Card After Debt Consolidation?.
Sometimes the best DIY move is to negotiate instead of borrowCan you negotiate with creditors yourself instead of taking a consolidation loan?
Yes. The FTC advises consumers who are struggling to contact creditors directly and try to work out a manageable payment plan. A credit-card issuer may be willing to lower a rate, waive certain fees, move a due date or offer a hardship arrangement. You do not have to pay a third party simply to ask the creditor what programs are available.
Use a simple call script and ask specific questions
Explain why the current payment is difficult, what amount you can reliably pay, and whether the hardship is temporary or longer term. Ask whether the issuer has a reduced-rate program, fixed repayment plan, fee waiver, due-date change or other accommodation. Ask how the arrangement will affect card use and reporting, and request the terms in writing before relying on them.
Keep records
Write down the date, representative's name or ID, offer details and confirmation number. Save letters, emails and statements. If you agree to a new payment schedule, verify the first payment is applied correctly. DIY debt management fails quickly when a verbal promise is misunderstood or a due date is missed.
If direct negotiation still leaves the payment unmanageable, compare the difference between handling it yourself and using a formal DMP in Debt Management vs Debt Consolidation.
A payoff strategy can beat consolidation when new credit is not cheaperDIY debt avalanche and snowball: alternatives to consolidation
If you can make all required minimum payments and have extra money available, you may not need to consolidate at all. The debt avalanche sends extra money to the highest-APR balance first while maintaining minimums on the others. This usually targets interest cost. The debt snowball sends extra money to the smallest balance first, creating quicker account payoffs that some people find motivating.
When avalanche can be the better DIY choice
Suppose the best consolidation loan you can obtain is 18% APR with a fee, while most of your current debt is already near 16%–20% and you can repay aggressively. A new loan may not create enough savings to justify the application and fee. Directing extra cash to the highest-rate balance can reduce debt without opening a new account.
When snowball may improve follow-through
Mathematical efficiency is not the only variable. If clearing a small balance within two months frees a minimum payment and keeps you engaged, the behavioral benefit can matter. The best strategy is one you can execute consistently, not one that looks ideal in a spreadsheet but collapses after three months.
Debt type can determine whether DIY consolidation is appropriateWhich debts can you consolidate yourself?
Credit-card balances and unsecured personal loans are the most straightforward candidates for a personal consolidation loan, subject to lender rules. Medical bills may be eligible for a personal loan, but before converting a potentially negotiable medical balance into interest-bearing loan debt, ask the provider about payment plans or financial assistance. Auto loans are secured by vehicles and may require lien handling. Federal student loans have their own federal consolidation framework and should not be mixed casually with consumer-debt strategies.
Do not automatically move zero-interest or low-rate debt
If a medical provider offers a 0% installment plan or a personal loan is already at a low fixed APR, paying it off with a higher-rate consolidation loan can make the situation worse. Consolidate only the debts that improve the overall structure.
Be especially careful with home equity
Using home equity to pay credit cards can reduce the interest rate, but it puts the home behind the repayment obligation. CFPB warns that failure to repay a home equity loan can lead to foreclosure and that closing costs can be substantial. Review Home Equity Loan to Pay Off Debt before turning unsecured balances into home-secured debt.
The best DIY comparison uses total dollars, not marketing languageHow to compare rates, fees and total cost yourself
Build one comparison sheet with the current debts on the left and each proposed strategy on the right. For current cards, record balance, APR and minimum payment. For a loan, record APR, origination fee, net proceeds, term, monthly payment and total of payments. For a balance transfer, record the transfer fee, promotional APR, expiration date and standard APR afterward. For a hardship plan, record the modified APR, payment and duration.
Watch for the “lower payment, higher total cost” trap
A five- or seven-year consolidation loan can cut the required monthly payment simply by stretching repayment over more months. That may help cash flow, but it can increase total interest. Compare the full scheduled repayment with a realistic payoff plan on the existing debts.
Use the same payoff horizon when possible
If you are comparing a three-year DIY avalanche with a five-year loan, the monthly payment comparison is not apples to apples. Model both over a similar timeline first. Then separately decide whether the longer term is worth the additional flexibility.

How can do it yourself debt consolidation affect your credit?
A new consolidation loan can create a hard inquiry and a new account, which may cause a short-term change in some credit profiles. Paying down revolving card balances can reduce utilization, which may help. Closing cards can reduce available credit, while leaving them open creates a behavioral risk. The exact score effect depends on the rest of your file and cannot be guaranteed.
Payment history remains the priority
Do not stop paying old accounts while waiting for a new loan to fund. A late payment caused by poor timing can be more damaging than the consolidation was meant to solve. Keep making required payments until each payoff is confirmed.
Do not apply repeatedly without a plan
Shopping randomly across many products can create avoidable inquiries and confusion. Start with prequalification tools when available, narrow the products that fit, and move to a full application only when the economics justify it. For a deeper breakdown, see How Bad Is Debt Consolidation for Your Credit?.
Weak credit can make a new loan the wrong DIY toolDIY debt consolidation with bad credit or a high debt-to-income ratio
If your credit is weak or your debt-to-income ratio is high, you may qualify only for consolidation loans with expensive APRs, high fees or limited amounts. Approval alone is not a reason to accept. Compare the offered rate with the debts you actually intend to replace. A 30% consolidation loan is unlikely to improve 22% credit-card debt simply because it creates one payment.
Direct hardship or counseling may deserve more weight
If new credit is not meaningfully cheaper, direct creditor programs or a reputable nonprofit counseling review can be more useful than forcing a loan. You can still keep control of the decision. Consumer Credit Counseling explains what a legitimate counseling review may include, while Debt Consolidation for a High Debt-to-Income Ratio covers the underwriting challenge in more detail.
Improve the application before reapplying
If the consolidation economics are unattractive today, consider whether three to six months of on-time payments, lower card balances, corrected credit-report errors, more stable income or a smaller requested amount could improve the offers. Repeatedly accepting expensive credit can make the next application harder rather than easier.
A written process prevents the most common DIY errorsHow to do debt consolidation yourself step by step
Step 1: Inventory every debt
Record creditor, balance, APR, minimum payment, status, due date, payoff amount and whether the debt is secured. Decide which debts are candidates and which should remain separate.
Step 2: Set a maximum sustainable payment
Build a monthly budget using reliable take-home income and normal living costs. Leave room for irregular expenses and a small emergency cushion so the plan does not fail the first time the car needs repair.
Step 3: Compare at least two non-settlement paths
For example, compare a personal loan with a balance-transfer card, or compare both with keeping the accounts separate and using an avalanche. If new credit is not cheaper, call creditors about hardship terms before assuming consolidation is necessary.
Step 4: Check fees and net proceeds
Confirm origination fees, transfer fees, closing costs, promotional deadlines and whether loan fees reduce the amount delivered. The cash or direct-payoff amount must be enough to satisfy the targeted balances.
Step 5: Apply only when the path improves the plan
Choose the product based on total cost, monthly affordability and risk—not the largest approval amount. Borrow only what you need for the payoff strategy.
Step 6: Pay creditors and verify posting
Track every payoff. Save confirmations. Watch for residual interest, autopay drafts or small trailing balances. Continue making minimum payments until the creditor confirms the payoff has posted.
Step 7: Decide what happens to paid-off cards
Keeping a card open can preserve available credit, but only if you can avoid rebuilding the balance. Consider locking the card, removing it from digital wallets or using an account alert rather than automatically closing every account.
Step 8: Automate the new payment
Set autopay for at least the required amount and create a calendar reminder several days before the due date. If your goal is early payoff, automate the extra principal as well.
Step 9: Review the plan monthly
Confirm balances are declining, no old account has revived unexpectedly, and the budget remains sustainable. If income falls, contact the lender or creditors early rather than waiting for multiple missed payments.
DIY debt consolidation example: three credit cards
Assume a borrower has three cards totaling $18,000. Card A has $7,000 at 27%, Card B has $6,000 at 23%, and Card C has $5,000 at 19%. The combined required minimums are approximately $560. The borrower can reliably put $650 per month toward debt.
| Illustrative path | Upfront cost | Monthly structure | What must go right |
|---|---|---|---|
| Keep cards + avalanche | $0 new financing fee | $650 spread across cards, extra to highest APR | Rates do not rise materially and borrower maintains discipline |
| Personal loan | Example 4% origination fee | One fixed payment based on APR and term | Final APR is meaningfully below the weighted card cost |
| 0% balance transfer | Example 3% transfer fee | One card; payment sized to promo deadline | Borrower qualifies for enough limit and repays before promo expires |
| Creditor hardship plans | Varies by issuer | Multiple modified payments | Each issuer offers workable concessions |
The table intentionally does not declare a winner because the result depends on the real APRs, fees and term. If the personal-loan offer is 12% with a reasonable fee, it may create meaningful savings. If it is 26% with a large fee, the avalanche or hardship route may be better. If the balance transfer has enough credit limit and the borrower can pay the required amount before the promotion expires, it may be cheapest—but only if the payoff deadline is realistic.
Run a “stress month” test
Before choosing, reduce the assumed available payment by 15% for one month. Can the strategy still make all required payments? If not, build a cash buffer before consolidating. A plan that fails when one utility bill is high is not yet robust enough.
Setup can be fast; payoff still takes yearsHow long does do it yourself debt consolidation take?
The research and comparison stage may take a few hours or several days. A personal-loan application can be approved and funded quickly with some lenders, while other applications require documentation and take longer. Balance transfers can also take time to post. Direct hardship negotiations may require multiple calls. None of those setup timelines tells you how long the debt itself will take to repay.
A three-year loan still requires three years of scheduled payments unless you pay early. A balance-transfer plan might target 12–21 months depending on the offer. An avalanche timeline depends on your payment and rates. Treat approval, funding, creditor payoff and final repayment as separate stages when you build the timeline.
Do not stop paying during the transition
Until each creditor confirms the payoff or new arrangement, continue following the existing payment requirements. A transition period is not a payment holiday.
Major borrowing plans can change the timing decision
Should you consolidate debt yourself before applying for a mortgage?
A lower monthly debt obligation can improve debt-to-income math in some situations, but opening a new loan can also create an inquiry, new account and documentation questions close to mortgage underwriting. Timing matters. If a home purchase is near, do not assume that reducing card balances with new debt automatically improves the application.
Mortgage lenders can review updated credit and liabilities during the process. If buying a home is a near-term goal, coordinate the consolidation timing with the mortgage professional rather than making a large credit move days before preapproval or closing. See Does Consolidation Affect My Mortgage Application? for a full underwriting-focused discussion.
Control is useful only when the situation is manageableWhen do it yourself debt consolidation may not be the best option
DIY is less attractive when you cannot make the required minimum payments even after realistic budget cuts, when accounts are deeply delinquent or facing litigation, when income is highly unstable, when the proposed consolidation products are more expensive than current debt, or when the amount of debt is too large to repay on a reasonable timeline.
You are repeatedly borrowing to make payments
If you use one credit card to cover another payment, rely on cash advances for essentials or take new loans to keep old loans current, the issue may be a structural cash-flow deficit rather than payment organization. A consolidation loan can delay the problem without solving it.
You need creditor concessions you cannot obtain directly
A nonprofit credit counselor may be able to organize a debt management plan with participating creditors. That is different from settlement and different from a consolidation loan. Compare the service, fees and proposed concessions rather than assuming “DIY” is always superior.
You are facing collection lawsuits, tax debt or other legal complexity
Legal rights and deadlines can matter more than consolidation. In those cases, qualified legal or tax advice may be appropriate. The goal is not to preserve DIY purity; it is to choose the safest workable response.
Do not let “DIY debt relief” marketing change the product without you noticingDIY consolidation vs debt settlement: keep the distinction clear
Debt consolidation generally pays existing debts through new financing or reorganizes how you repay them. Debt settlement attempts to resolve debt for less than the amount owed. Settlement can involve delinquency, collection activity, lawsuits and potential tax issues. It should not be presented as the same thing as a balance transfer or personal consolidation loan.
If a company says it offers “consolidation” but instructs you to stop paying creditors and deposit money into a special account while it negotiates settlements, you are likely looking at a settlement model rather than conventional consolidation. The FTC warns consumers about debt-relief scams and says companies cannot lawfully charge certain upfront fees for telemarketed debt-relief services before specified results are achieved.
DIY creditor negotiation is different from stopping payments
Calling a card issuer to ask for a lower rate or hardship plan while remaining current is not the same as intentionally defaulting in hopes of settling later. Be precise about the strategy you are using.
Most DIY failures happen after the loan is approvedCommon do it yourself debt consolidation mistakes
Consolidating without fixing the monthly deficit
If expenses continue to exceed income, a lower payment may create only temporary room. Build a budget that stays positive before moving balances.
Borrowing more than the payoff amount
Extra cash can turn consolidation into additional borrowing. Size the loan around the debts being paid and known fees rather than the largest amount offered.
Ignoring transfer or origination fees
A lower headline rate can be offset by a large fee. Compare APR and total dollars, not the marketing rate alone.
Missing old payments during the payoff window
Continue paying old creditors until you have confirmation that the new funds were received and applied.
Refilling paid-off cards
This is one of the biggest behavioral risks. If the cards rebuild while the consolidation loan remains, your total debt can become larger than before.
Using home equity only because the rate is lower
Collateral changes the risk. A cheaper secured rate can still be a poor trade if income is uncertain or the home is needed for other priorities.
DIY should reduce fees and confusion—not expose you to a different scamRed flags and scams when researching DIY debt consolidation
Be skeptical of unsolicited calls or texts promising guaranteed debt forgiveness, a secret government program or immediate approval regardless of your finances. Verify who the company is, what product it actually offers and when fees are charged. The FTC has repeatedly warned about debt-relief operations that promise quick results or demand money before delivering the service.
“We need remote access to your bank account”
A legitimate lender may need verified banking information for funding or autopay, but an unsolicited caller asking for passwords, one-time codes or remote-device access is a major red flag. Never provide authentication codes to someone who contacted you unexpectedly.
“Stop paying all your creditors today”
That instruction is not a normal step in a personal-loan consolidation or balance transfer. Ask whether the company is actually selling debt settlement and what the consequences are.
“Your rate is guaranteed before we review anything”
Real credit offers depend on underwriting and disclosures. A guarantee with no review should make you cautious.
Frequently asked questions about do it yourself debt consolidation
These answers focus on the practical decisions consumers most often face when they want to consolidate or organize debt without paying a company to run the process.
Can I consolidate debt myself without using a company?
Yes. You can compare personal loans or balance-transfer cards directly, contact creditors about hardship arrangements, complete payoffs yourself and track the new repayment plan. The important part is comparing total cost, fees, term and risk rather than choosing solely because a product creates one payment.
What is the easiest way to do DIY debt consolidation?
For eligible borrowers, a personal consolidation loan can be operationally simple because it replaces selected debts with one fixed payment. A balance transfer can also be simple for credit-card debt. Neither is automatically best; the easiest method still needs to improve the financial outcome.
Can I negotiate lower credit-card rates myself?
Yes. The FTC encourages consumers who are struggling to contact creditors directly and ask about payment plans or other accommodations. Ask for any agreement in writing and keep detailed records of calls, terms and confirmation numbers.
Is a balance transfer considered debt consolidation?
It can be. Moving several credit-card balances to one new card consolidates those revolving balances into one account. Check the transfer fee, promotional expiration date, credit limit and APR after the promotion before deciding.
Does DIY debt consolidation hurt your credit?
It can affect credit, but the direction and size vary. A new loan or card can create an inquiry and new account, while paying down revolving balances may reduce utilization. Payment history and whether old cards remain open also matter.
Can I do debt consolidation myself with bad credit?
You can compare options, but weak credit may make new loans expensive. If the offered APR is not better than the debt being replaced, direct creditor hardship arrangements or a reputable nonprofit counseling review may deserve more attention.
Should I close credit cards after consolidating them?
Not automatically. Closing cards can reduce available revolving credit, while keeping them open creates a risk of rebuilding balances. Consider your credit profile and behavior, and use controls such as card locks or removing stored payment methods if spending access is the concern.
When should I get help instead of doing debt consolidation myself?
Consider outside help when you cannot make minimum payments, are facing lawsuits or complex collections, have unstable income, cannot qualify for a better consolidation product, or need a structured debt management plan. A reputable nonprofit credit counselor can review options without requiring you to surrender control of the decision.
Bottom line: do it yourself debt consolidation is a process, not a product
Do it yourself debt consolidation can be a practical way to reduce fees and stay in control, but the job is larger than applying for one loan. You need to inventory the debt, calculate the real cost, compare at least two strategies, complete each payoff carefully, protect your credit during the transition and build rules that stop balances from returning.
A personal loan or balance transfer can work well when the final terms are clearly better and the payment fits your budget. Direct creditor hardship arrangements or an avalanche may be better when new credit is expensive. A nonprofit counseling review may be useful when you need creditor concessions or more structure. The best DIY decision is the one that reduces debt reliably without creating a more expensive or riskier obligation.
Keep the plan written, save every payoff confirmation, review balances monthly and measure progress by principal actually disappearing—not by how simple the payment screen looks.
Sources and guidance
The article cites current U.S. consumer-protection guidance on self-directed debt repayment, consolidation, balance transfers, home equity and debt-relief scams.
- How To Get Out of Debt · consumer.ftc.gov
- What do I need to know about consolidating my credit card debt? · consumerfinance.gov
- What is a home equity loan? · consumerfinance.gov
- Looking for debt relief? Here’s how to avoid a scam · consumer.ftc.gov
Debtier debt guides
DIY works best when the math and the follow-through both work.
Compare debt consolidation methods by total cost, payment stability, payoff time and the risk of rebuilding balances.